Decorative concrete that holds up to a Colorado winter
Plain gray concrete does its job. It also shows every oil drip, every rust ring from a patio chair, and every hairline crack. Decorative concrete is the same slab with more thought put into the surface. The color is mixed in or worked into the top, the texture gives your shoes something to grip, and the pattern pulls the eye away from the little flaws every slab picks up over time.
The finishes we pour most around Aurora are exposed aggregate, integral color, acid or water-based stain on slabs you already have, saw-cut patterns, and broom borders that frame a smooth center. Each one has a different look and a different job. Exposed aggregate is the toughest of the bunch and the one people ask about most, so it gets its own section below.
Decorative work is still concrete underneath, and it fails the same ways if the base is bad. We build it the same way we build everything else: compacted road base, rebar, and a 4,000 PSI air-entrained mix. Typical pricing runs $12 to $18 per sq ft. A 12x16 exposed aggregate patio (192 sq ft) usually lands between $2,300 to $3,450. This page sits under our residential concrete services. If you want the look of stone or slate instead, see stamped concrete, and for where these finishes usually go, see concrete patios.
Decorative finish or plain concrete: which fits?
A decorative finish costs more than a basic broom finish, so it should earn its keep. Here's how we sort it out.
Call soon if you see
- A slick, glassy surface by the pool, hot tub, or back door where people have already slipped
- A plain gray patio with stains you have scrubbed for years and cannot get out
- A surface that is scaling or flaking, where a decorative overlay may be cheaper than a tear-out
- A new patio or walkway where the HOA wants something nicer than gray
- A slab with tire marks, rust stains, and patched cracks that you are tired of looking at
Usually safe to watch
- A sound, level slab that only needs a good cleaning and a fresh coat of sealer
- A driveway that is getting regular use where a standard broom finish is the better value
- Hairline cracks that have not changed. Color will not hide a moving crack.
- Concrete with deep structural cracking or heaved panels. Fix the slab first.
Decorative options and what each one is good for
Integral color
Color pigment goes into the truck, so the whole slab is tinted from top to bottom. Chips and scrapes do not show a gray layer underneath the way a painted surface would. Colors cure lighter than they look wet, so we show you cured samples, not just a chart.
Acid or water-based stain on existing slabs
If your slab is sound, stain is the cheapest way to change how it looks. Acid stain reacts with the concrete and gives a mottled, earthy tone that varies a bit from spot to spot. Water-based stain gives you more color choices and a more even look. Old patches, grinder marks, and past coatings show through, so we test a small area first.
Saw-cut patterns
Once the slab has hardened enough, we cut shallow lines in a grid, diamond, or border pattern. Done well, the cuts double as control joints so the slab cracks where we planned. We lay them out so they land on real joint locations first and look good second.
Broom borders and smooth centers
A smooth-troweled or lightly textured panel with a broom-finish border is simple and looks sharp. Keep the smooth part for dry covered areas, because troweled concrete gets slick when wet. Outside, a fine broom texture across the whole thing is safer.
Exposed aggregate: how it is made and why it lasts
Exposed aggregate is the finish where you see the stones. Every slab has gravel and sand in it. Normally a thin layer of cement paste covers all of that and gets troweled smooth. With exposed aggregate, we remove the paste on purpose and leave the stones standing in the surface.
How we do it
The slab is poured and floated like any other. Then, instead of broom finishing it, we spray a surface retarder on top. The retarder slows the set of only the top sliver of paste, usually about one eighth to one quarter inch. The rest of the slab cures normally underneath. Timing matters here. Wash too early and you pull stones loose. Wait too long and the paste has hardened past what water can remove.
When the slab is ready, we wash off the softened paste with water and a brush or a low-pressure sprayer. The stones appear, and what is left between them is clean, textured sand and cement. A good wash leaves the stones locked in firmly and evenly exposed. Rushing it leaves bald spots and loose rocks that end up in your shoe tread.
Aggregate choices
The stone is a big part of the look. Rounded river rock gives a smooth, natural feel and a warm, mixed color. Crushed granite and quartz bring more sparkle and sharper texture. Colored or imported stone can be seeded onto the surface for a more uniform look. Smaller stone feels better under bare feet. Bigger stone has more texture but is rougher to walk on. Ask to see a sample board before you pick.
Grip, wear, and sealing
Exposed aggregate has built-in traction, even when wet or lightly frosted. That is why we like it for pool decks, walkways, and steps. The busy texture also hides wear. Dirt, light stains, and little scrapes disappear into the pattern in a way they never do on smooth gray concrete.
It does need sealing. The exposed stones and the sand between them are more open than a troweled surface, so they hold water and dirt. We apply a sealer after about 30 days of cure, then you reseal every 2 to 3 years. Skip it and the surface gets dull, picks up stains, and takes more freeze-thaw damage.
The downside is snow removal. A metal shovel catches on the stones, and a plow blade will tear it up. Use a plastic shovel and go easy.
How we install decorative concrete
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Pick the finish
We go over finish, color, and layout with you, and look at samples together.
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Prep the base
We excavate soft soil, compact road base, set forms for the shape and slope, and tie a rebar grid. Decorative finishes make a flaw in the base more obvious, not less.
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Pour, float, and finish
We place a 4,000 PSI air-entrained mix, screed it, and float it. Color goes in the mix or is broadcast on top, depending on the finish. For exposed aggregate, we apply the surface retarder at the right moment.
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Wash, cut, and cure
Exposed aggregate gets washed the next day. Saw-cut patterns get cut as soon as the slab can take the blade without raveling. We cure the slab so it does not dry too fast.
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Seal and hand it over
Sealer goes down after the slab is ready for it. Walk on it in a day or two, put furniture on it after about a week, and drive on it after about 7 days if it is a driveway. See concrete sealing for how often to redo it.
What affects the price of decorative concrete
Most decorative jobs run $12 to $18 per sq ft. These are the things that move you around that range.
- Size and shape
Larger slabs cost less per square foot. Curves, borders, and layered patterns take more forming and cutting time.
- Finish type
Exposed aggregate is labor-heavy because of the retarder and washout. Integral color adds pigment cost. Saw-cut designs add cutting time. Stamped concrete is priced separately at $14 to $22 per sq ft.
- Site prep
Slopes, clay, and fill dirt that needs to come out add base work. A flat, open yard is the easy case.
- Removing old concrete
Tear-out and haul-off run about $3 to $7 per sq ft. If your old slab is just scaled on top, an overlay can be cheaper. See concrete resurfacing.
- Access and reinforcement
If the truck cannot get close, we pump or wheelbarrow, which adds time.
Decorative concrete through the seasons
Winter
Cold weather is hard on decorative finishes. Color can come out uneven and washout timing shifts. We usually hold these jobs for warmer weather.
Spring
Spring is a good window, but the schedule fills fast.
Summer
Heat and wind speed up the set, which makes exposed aggregate trickier. We pour early, keep the mix cool, and time the retarder and washout carefully. Color work benefits from steady curing.
Fall
Fall is a good time to pour and seal. Aim to finish early enough that the sealer cures before the first hard freeze. Keep deicers off new decorative concrete its first winter.
Aurora soil, salt, HOAs, and permits
Expansive clay soil
Much of Aurora sits on clay that swells and shrinks with moisture. A decorative surface does not change that. A solid base and rebar keep the slab in one piece, and good drainage keeps water from pooling at the edges.
Deicing salt
Road salt and liquid deicers ride home on your tires and get tracked onto concrete. Air-entrained mix and a sealer protect decorative surfaces. Skip the salt the first winter and use sand for traction.
HOA approval
Many Aurora neighborhoods have an HOA. Color, pattern, and material choices often need architectural approval, especially on front walks and driveways. Get it in writing before your pour date. We can supply the specs.
City of Aurora permits
Work in the public right-of-way needs a city permit, which matters if your walk or driveway apron crosses it. A backyard patio generally stays on private property, but we confirm requirements for your address with the City of Aurora before we schedule.
Decorative Concrete FAQs
How much does decorative concrete cost in Aurora?
Typical pricing is $12 to $18 per sq ft. A 12x16 exposed aggregate patio (192 sq ft) usually runs $2,300 to $3,450. Stamped concrete is priced separately. Our patio cost guide compares the options side by side.
Is exposed aggregate slippery?
No. The exposed stones give it more traction than a smooth or even a broom-finished surface, including when wet. It is a common choice for walkways, steps, and pool decks.
Can you stain my existing concrete?
Yes, if the slab is sound and clean. Stain shows what is under it, so old patches and past coatings can show through. We test a small area first. If the surface is scaling, an overlay may work better.
Does decorative concrete need sealing?
Yes. Seal after about 30 days of cure, then reseal every 2 to 3 years. Sealing protects the color and keeps water and salt out. Sealing runs $1.50 to $3 per sq ft.
Will color fade over time?
Integral color holds up well because it runs through the slab, but sun can soften it a little. A sealer helps.
Can I shovel or plow exposed aggregate?
Use a plastic shovel and a light touch. Metal blades and plow edges catch on the stones and can tear them loose.